A little blurb about some of these components
First off - The Xray T1M. This car is completely
awesome, and I haven't even driven it yet. Putting it together was
a blast, and every part fit with perfection. The instruction
manual is the best I've ever seen. Aside from me making some
stupid mistakes from time to time, the whole car went together without a
hitch. The only parts I probably could redo is the shocks.
They say that the piston rod shouldn't come back out on its own when
pushed in, and mine do, just slightly. I bled the shocks like they
said, but they still push out some. Oh well, after I got them
together and put the springs on and installed them on my car, I did a
few drop tests and neither the front or rear bounce too much. But
they could be better. I'll have to work on them when I get some
Now moving onto the batteries. I purchased (4) matched
GP3300's from some guy on eBay a while back so I had those already
in my box, but my wife bought me a (6) cell matched set of EPIC cells
for my birthday. Which I should mention that my wife actually
bought me the whole car for my birthday as a surprise, along with a few
other things. Sometimes wives can totally rule. So I made
the 4-cell pack and plan to make a 6-cell pack as well. Oh yeah,
I'll be pushing this car to the limits alright.
The GT7 I got from Novak last year in exchange for a few of
our 540 conversion kits. The guys at Novak are really cool, and
when it comes to quality products, Novak really knows their stuff.
The GT7 is one of the most popular ESC's on the market. If you
read RCCA magazine as much as I do, you'll notice how many cars get
their first Test Drive with the GT7 running the power plant. Not
to mention the number of racers who live and die by the GT7. In
that case, it's probably overkill for my application, with 7
programmable throttle profiles and no motor limit, it's more than enough
for my T1M.
The servo I picked to use is Hitec's HS-5625 Digital High
Speed servo. I tossed around many servo ideas before settling on
this one. Originally I wasn't going to go digital. I thought
for sure it wasn't necessary, but the more I read about digital servos
and people saying, "once you go digital, you'll never go back", I talked
myself into it. Unfortunately my target servo price of $30 wasn't
going to be enough for any digital servo, so I decided on getting a few
other things from Tower Hobbies until I spent enough to use one of their
promotional codes to save some cash on the deal. This servo
probably has way more torque than is necessary for any touring car, but
almost all digital servos have tons of torque, it's just one of their
characteristics over analog servos. The speed is what's more
important, and this servo is rated at 0.14 sec/60º
at 6V which is pretty good. It's not in the super-fast area that
some $100 servos can hit, but with its guaranteed unbreakable Alumite/MP
gear train technology, cool blue aluminum servo horn and a price that
was reasonable, I decided to pick one up.
Now comes the fun stuff, picking a
motor. I knew I wasn't going to run this thing with a stock
27-turn motor. It would be a waste of the rebuildable
universal drive shafts which are made from special world renowned
top-secret self-developed HUDY SPRING STEEL with low-friction drive
clips and integrated ultra-true hex hubs (heat treated and hardcoated).
You know what I mean? So I snooped around MyTSN.com in the setups
section to see what some of the pros were running in their T1's.
By far the most popular motor type was a 12-turn double, with a few
10-turns and some single winds of each of the two. So since I
really wanted to see this sucker scream, I opted for the 10-turn double,
also knowing that 10-turn motors are probably one of the more popular
motors that people run. Now the hard part is deciding who makes
the best 10-turn double. Or least one that's affordable and
doesn't suck. Last month, RCCA did some reviews of two hot new
motors for this year- Trinity's D6 (even better than the acclaimed D5?)
and Orion's V2. After reading the article I was totally sold on
the V2. Not only does it look totally unconventional, which is a
good thing, it put out some impressive numbers, and the brush wear and
reduced brush bouncing was appealing. But at the time I was ready
to get all my stuff from Tower, with the promo code, all the V2's were
still out of stock, waiting to come in. And me being the impatient
person that I am, decided to get what was in stock, and that was
Trinity's D6 10-turn Double Round Wire. In the article they
tested the FlatWire 10-turn, which again Tower didn't have in stock, so
I got the cheaper round-wire version and figured that it's probably an
equally great motor. And the price is pretty good for what may become
a really great motor, especially if it's better than the last year's D5
which won all sorts of awards. So hopefully it's enough to burn
the rubber on my T1M.
My radio gear is currently what I stole out of my Micro setup.
And it's not what I will use ultimately for my T1M, but will get me
started for now. Even though this is a cheap-o AM radio, it's
worked out really well for me over the last two years that I've owned it
in my Micro. But after my buddy Jamin bought a Futaba FM radio, I
was sold on how well it worked and I've been wanting to get one those
ever since. Stupid Jamin, always buying cool stuff and then making
me have get it too. A perfect example is this Mini. But
anyway, so the radio will have to work for now.
Moving onto the sweet HPI Civic Hatch body. If you know
me, you know I'm a Civic guy. Just because my own Civic is a
no-horsepower, bumpy-riden, no A/C working piece of crap, doesn't
mean that I don't think these little imports are cool. Especially
the older style hatches, like this HPI body. The bad part about
this body is that it was designed for HPI's Nitro Mini which had an
adjustable wheel base. Again HPI and their stupid adjustable wheel
base thing. So the new 1/12th scale tourers (Xray, Yokomo, and
Corally) have all settled on one wheel base - 208mm. Some of the
older HPI bodies have a 208mm wheel base and some have a 225mm wheel
base, or at least the wheel wells are marked on 225mm centers. So
the the Civic Hatch is 225mm, and isn't a direct fit for the Xray T1M.
The width is right on though, but I figure I'll be able to cut the
wheels wells inside just enough so that's it's not eniterely noticeable.
Also remember that the HPI Mini used mini wheels as well, whereas the
new trend in 1/12th scale is to use standard size 2.2", 24mm or 26mm
touring wheels. This means big wheels, small car, and a super phat
look. Put it this way, if this little car were full scale, this
Honda Civic Hatch would be riding on a set of 26x12 rims. The
tires would be size 300/10-26. Good luck getting those not to rub
the fenders. You'd have to put a lift kit on your car instead of
lowering it just to get the wheels under the body. It's obviously
unreasonable by 1:1 scale standards, but then again in scale terms, so
is a car that can go from 0-360 mph in less than 6 seconds. The
math stops computing after a while. But with RC cars this small,
big wheels look cool. Who needs everything to be "true to scale"?
After all, when you come right down to it, these are just models.
Sometimes it's innovative to have the scales tipped just a little bit.
More to come...